추석의 해질녘

Yesterday was Chuseok again.

As in the years before, the city was quiet, as Koreans spent the week-end visiting relatives and friends.

For me, Saturday had all the melancholy of a Christmas spent alone. 
But the joyful greetings I received from my Korean friends on Sunday brightened the mood.
And it was nice to slow down and have a break from the everyday...

The port of Busan, at sunset on Chuseok.

Looking over central Busan, at sunset on Chuseok.

Sanba - Fouth Typhoon to Hit Korea In 2012

It's formation was first reported by the Korean Meteorological Administration in the morning of September 11. 

By September 13th, it seemed pretty certain that it would pass over, or very near to, the Korean peninsula.  It also looked like it would become as powerful as Bolaven, which caused much damage on Jeju island and on the western side of the peninsula in August.  Some feared that it could damage a lot of crops just ahead of Chuseok (추석), the Korean thanksgiving holiday.

By September 15th, it had grown in strength and in size, packing winds as fast as 180 km/h. 

On September 16, it passed over the Japanese islands of Okinawa, causing flooding and leaving many residents of the island without power.  That night, in Busan, the sun set behind a think veil of clouds, swiftly circulating westward over the city as they swirled towards the center of the storm.

A view of Busan near sunset, on Sunday Sept 16th.

Another view of the city, near sunset on Sunday Sept 16th.

In the early hours of September 17th, it approached Korean waters, it's eye still distinguishable by Korean weather satellites.  At sunrise, the sky above the city was still completely overcast, and thick clouds with low-hanging tails dropped copious quantities of rain over the city.

Busan just after sunrise, on Monday Sept 17th.

The buildings of SeoMyeon, barely distinguishable in the clouds and pouring rain.

Around 9AM, the storm finally reached the peninsular mainland.  By noon, it was almost directly over Busan.  And by evening, it was dissipating over the ocean, to the east of North Korea, having cleared the entire peninsula.

In Busan, typhoon Sanba was far more intense than Bolaven or Tembin, with strong gales capable of bending and breaking small trees.  On Monday, waves pushed by the storm's strong winds broke violently on the seashore near the city.   Starting on Saturday, it dumped over 800 mm of rain on the peninsula, which resulted in landslides and flooding in some low-lying areas.  Over 450,000 homes lost electrical power as a result of the storm.  One person was confirmed dead by late Monday evening.

Typhoon Sanba was the fourth typhoon to hit the Korean peninsula this year.  It was the first time since 1962 that four typhoons passed over Korea in a single year.

Blue Moons and Lunar Leap Months

On the evening of August 31, a blue moon will rise over North America.  No, the moon will not appear blue to the naked eye.  Rather, it will be the 2nd full moon to rise in the month of August.

Usually, only one full moon occurs in every calendar month.  But, about once every 3 years, there will be one month in the year with 2 full moons.  The reason is because it takes the moon about 29 days to go around the Earth.  That is, each full moon occurs about 29 days after the previous one.  But a calendar month is 28-31 days long.  So in most months, the full moon occurs a few days earlier than it did the month before.  And so, about once every three years, there will be a month where a full moon occurs very early in the month, and a second full moon occurs again before the month is over.  This month, the first full moon occurred on August 2, and now a second one is occurring on August 31.

Notably, this particular blue moon is the first to occur since the death of Neil Armstrong, the first human being to walk on the moon.  Neil Armstrong was the commander of the Apollo 11 spacecraft, which landed on the moon on July 20, 1969.  It was Armstrong who said, upon setting foot on the moon for the first time:  "That's one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind".   He died on August 25.


In North America, a blue moon is a slightly unusual astronomical event, and not much more.  But in Asia, it's a much more significant phenomena.

Many Asian countries operate on a lunisolar calendar, that is a calendar that is based in part on the motion of the moon, and in part on the motion of the Earth around the sun.  In North American, the calendar is entirely solar.  In this calendar, the time it takes the Earth to go around the sun (one solar year) is divided into 12 months, which have approximately, but not exactly, the same number of days.  In a lunisolar calendar, a month is defined as the time it takes the moon to go around the Earth.  Thus, each month of the year has exactly the same number of days, that is 29 days.  This is because it takes the moon 29 days to go around the Earth.  During most solar years, there are 12 full moons.  Therefore, there are 12 lunar months in most solar years.  However, in some solar years (essentially the same years in which a blue moon occurs), there are 13 full moons, and therefore 13 months in the year.  In such years, the 13th month is called a "lunar leap month".

The full moon (but not a blue one) rising over the GwangAn bridge.

The Korean calendar is lunisolar.  They use the same calendar as North Americans do for everyday purposes, but the dates of some important holidays are set according to a lunar calendar.  This is why Chuseok (추석), the Korean thanksgiving holiday, and Sollal (설날), the Korean new-year holiday, occur at different dates every year.

In Korean, a leap month is called a yun-dal (윤달).  The last leap month occurred between April 21 and May 20 of this year.  For some Koreans, a leap month is traditionally a period during which the gods are not paying too much attention to the activities of humans.  So, a leap month is the best time to do things that are not likely to be seen in a favourable light by one's ancestors, like digging up their remains and having them cremated.

The idea of cremating a deceased relative after having already buried him / her may appear odd.  However, this happens quite often these days, in Korea, as a result of recent changes in the local burial customs.  Traditionally, Koreans have buried their deceased relatives in simple burial mounds, usually on the many mountains that dot the Korean countryside.  But because the population of Korea has grown so large, mountain burials have recently been outlawed, or at least officially discouraged, for obvious practical reasons.  Furthermore, the government encourages families whose relatives are already buried on mountains to have their remains cremated and relocated.  According to one news article, so many families have chosen to do this during the last leap month that the city of Seoul had to double its offering of cremation services during that period.

A burial mound by a tree, in HaeSinDang park.

A small burial mound in a clearing on GeumJeong mountain, in Busan.

A small Christian graveyard, on GeumJeong mountain, in Busan.

First Bolaven, Then Tembin

Hot on the heels of typhoon Bolaven, typhoon Tembin passed through Korea today.

Temben's path in the Pacific was a bit unusual, as its path looped over itself in the ocean near Taiwan.  It was expected to arrive in Korea only Friday, and was expected to bring a lot of rain.  This was cause for concern, as Bolaven had already caused flooding in some parts of the country.

Tembin reached Korea early.  By 11:00AM on Thursday, it was already over the peninsular mainland.

In Busan, the Tembin felt much less dangerous than Bolaven, though both typhoons caused relatively little damage here.

The Korean Meteorological Administration is not currently tracking any more typhoons over the Pacific ocean.  Hopefully, this is it for the 2012 typhoon season.

Typhoon Bolaven Hits Korea - Update

Today, the estimate of the damage caused by typhoon Bolaven was updated.  Still only 10 Koreans are confirmed dead, with 5 more Chinese fishermen known to have drowned.  About 10 more Chinese fishermen are missing.

But it has now been reported that over 1.7 million homes were left without electricity as a result of damage to power lines caused by the storm.

Spectacular satellite images of the storm are still available on the web-site of the Korean Meteorological Administration.  This shot shows the storm over the Korean mainland, in Jeolla province, at 6:45 AM on August 28.  This one shows the storm dissipating over North Korea and China, at 7:45 PM on August 28.

When the sun rose on the morning of August 28, Busan remained quite dark.

Busan near dawn, on August 28.

It was quite rainy and windy in the city through the day, but by evening time, calm had returned to the city.  Strong wind gusts still occurred, but rarely.  The sustained winds were gone.  In the evening, the moon found a break in the clouds and shone down on the city.

The moon shining through a break in the clouds, in the evening of Aug 28.

The next morning, the sunrise in Busan was gorgeous!  There was not even a hint of the nasty weather of the previous day.

Sunrise in Busan, on August 29.

Typhoon Bolaven Hits Korea

The Korean Meteorological Administration saw it coming since August 20, expecting it to be the largest storm of the year.  As it approached the peninsula, it looked like it would be the largest storm to hit Korea in about a decade.

In preparation for the coming storm, emergency measures were taken, and school was cancelled in those areas on the west side of the country where the worst of the storm was expected to pass.  The military was ordered to secure its equipment and to stand ready to assist people who may be affected by the storm.

It hit Jeju island first, causing waves to crash up higher than 3-story buildings.  As it progressed northwards, skirting by South Jeolla province, its winds reached 51.9 meters per second.  That's more than 185 km / h!!!

By late evening, it had finally moved north of South Korea.  News outlets reported 9 deaths as of 8PM local time on Tuesday.  An estimated two-hundred-thousand to three-hundred-fourty-thousand homes were left without power as the storm damaged power lines.

More precise damage estimates will certainly become available soon.


However, typhoon season is not yet over, and typhoon Tembin is now heading northward from the east coast of Taiwan.

돌아왔고 돌아왔어요

Chaque traversée est différente...

Le trajet des vols outre-Pacifique peut varier quelque peu, au gré des vents, j'imagine.  Donc, le paysage qui défile sous les ailes de l'avion n'est pas toujours le même durant chaque voyage.  Cette fois, ce sont les îles Aléoutiennes qui m'ont accueilli de l'autre côté de la ligne de changement de date.

Presque chaque retour à l'ouest se fait au rythme d'une chanson, la plupart du temps un peu mélancolique, qui me remplie de nostalgie pour ce pays que j'habitais, il y a déjà 2 ans.  Cette fois, la chanson s'intitulait "The Great Exhale".  Encore aujourd'hui, en l'écoutant, je me souviens des paysages albertains que j'ai eu le privilège d'habiter cet été.

Le centre-ville d'Edmonton et la rivière Saskatchewan Nord.

La rivière Saskatchewan Nord traversant la prairie albertaine.

La vallée de la rivière Saskatchewan Nord, en plein centre d'Edmonton.

Un couché du soleil enflammant les nuages...

Mais de retour en Corée, je n'ai pas tardé de me souvenir que je l'aime, elle aussi.

Des nuages à basse altitude, planant au-dessus de Busan.

La lune se levant au-dessus du pont de GwangAn.

Encore la lune au-dessue du pont de GwangAn.

A Hike Across Jang San

Jang San (장산) is a mountain located to the east of Busan.  It is possible to hike across the mountain, from BanSong dong (반송동) to the Jang San sector of HaeUnDae gu (해운대구).

BanSong dong (반송동), in north-east Busan.

The trail from 반송동 towards the peak of 장산.

The forest on 장산.

The trail from 반송동 towards the peak of 장산.

Water droplets on a spider's web, on 장산.

Approaching the peak of the mountain, it is possible to see the entire valley that lies to the north of the mountain.  But on a humid summer day, the view can be obstructed by clouds or fog.

Looking towards 반송동, approaching the peak of 장산.

The valley to the north of 장산.

Surprisingly, on the highest part of 장산 lie a number of rather grim reminders of one of the darkest historical periods of the Korean peninsula, namely the Korean war.

A sign, warning of the presence of land mines on 장산.

The land mines lie beyond a razor-wire fence.

The peak of 장산 is fenced-off, and inaccessible to the public.

It seems that 장산 was an important military position during the Korean war, perhaps a defensive position or a surveillance point in the Busan perimeter.  Even today, the peak of the mountain is a restricted military zone, and no civilians can access it. 

This was the first time that I saw first-hand such obvious remnants of the Korean war.  And though the signs clearly indicated that the mines were on the other side of a fence, I was nervous passing so near to this area, as I wondered if heavy rainfall could move landmines out of the region that was fenced-off.


Having climbed as high as possible on 장산, I reached the south face of the mountain.  From there, the view of Busan and the Pacific Ocean is spectacular.  But on a humid day, clouds and mist can significantly obstruct the view.

광안리, as seen from 장산.

해운대구, as seen from 장산.

Thick clouds circling the peak of 장산.

Another view of 광안리, from a lower point on the mountain.

A closer look at the 광안대교.

The 달맞이 고개, as seen from 장산.

I plan on returning to 장산 on a less humid day, as it offers some of the best views of the city of Busan.  Searching the web, I found the web-site of photographer CK (씨케이) who took pictures of the city from 장산 at night and at sunset.  His shots are amazing!

Un moment de repli dans la pluie sur le mont Baekyang

La journée d'aujourd'hui a été pluvieuse à Busan.

À partir du mont Baekyang, la ville était visible au travers de l'air humide.

Busan, vue à partir du mont Baekyang par une journée pluvieuse.

De lourds nuages au-dessus de Busan, vus à partir du mont Baekyang.

Une section du port de Busan, par une journée pluvieuse.

Dans sa section la moins élevée, l'humidité donnait un air mystérieux à la montagne.

En s'approchant des nuages, sur le mont Baekyang.

La forêt sur le mont Baekyang, par une journée pluvieuse.

Puis soudainement, il était impossible de voir la ville au bas de la montagne puisqu'elle était cachée par les nuages.  Mais les bruits de la circulation automobile demeuraient audible la plupart du temps.  Sauf que parfois, si on se retrouvait derrière une colline ou dans un boisé assez dense, les bruits de la ville disparaîssaient.  Ces brefs moments d'isolement étaient paisibles et réconfortants.

À la cime de la montagne, les nuages étaient très denses et il pleuvait.

La cime du mont Baekyang, par une journée pluvieuse.

Le chemin vers la cime de la montagne, elle-même cachée dans les nuages.

Une petite forêt ennuagée, près de la cime du mont Baekyang.

De petits arbres enveloppés par les nuages, près de la cime du mont Baekyang.

En redescendant, on constatait que les nuages s'étaient alourdis durant notre escalade.  Il fallait maintenant descendre plus bas pour en ressortir.  Parfois, il était possible de les voir s'amonceler sur les flancs de la montagne.

Des nuages défilant vers le haut le long d'un des flancs du mont Baekyang.

Une vue du flanc de la montagne à travers les nuages.

Alors qu'on arrivait au bas de la montagne, le soleil baignait de quelques derniers rayons les nuages au-dessus d'elle.

Une dernière caresse de rayons solaires...

Venus Passes Between Earth And The Sun

Following the solar eclipse that occurred not long ago, another interesting astronomical event was visible from Busan this week.

Specifically, on Wednesday morning Busan time, the planet Venus passed in front of the sun.

I was fortunate to see this event projected on a viewing plate through a telescope that had been setup by a colleague.

An image of the sun projected through a telescope.  The small dark spot on the upper left is the shadow of Venus.

I feel particularly lucky to have witnessed the passage of Venus in front of the sun because such an event is not going to happen again until 2117...

Memorial Day in Korea

Today was a national holiday in Korea, known as "Memorial Day".

This was the 57th Memorial Day, a holiday held in honour of all South Koreans who died in defense of the nation during the Korean War, or during other periods.  To mark Memorial Day, remembrance ceremonies were held at a number of locations throughout the country.

Sadly, the remains of many war dead are simply missing in Korea, as many fallen soldiers were never buried in marked graves.  Every once in a while, the remains of soldiers are found.  In September of 2010, the remains of a fallen soldier were returned to his family after they were discovered on a mountain in the PyeongChang region of South Korea.  (PyeongChang is the location of the upcoming 2018 winter Olympic games, which will be held in South Korea.)  According to the article reporting on this event, the remains of over 5000 fallen Korean soldiers have been discovered since 2002 alone.  And the government has returned some of these soldiers directly to their families, in what appears to be a break with the practice of burying fallen soldiers in military cemateries. 

Not long before this year's Memorial Day, the remains of fallen South Korean soldiers were returned home for the first time from North Korea.  But it was the US government, not the North Korean government, that returned these soldiers to South Korea.  Until recently, the United States government had been working to recover the remains of fallen US soldiers in North Korea.  The remains of South Korean soldiers were discovered in North Korea along with those of fallen US soldiers by the United States government, who then returned the South Korean soldiers home.  According to one article in which this news was reported, there could be as many as 40,000 South Korean soldiers lying in unmarked graves in North Korea.

선암사에 부처님 오신날 봉축 대법회

In addition to going to 삼광사 on Buddha's birthday, I also went to see the celebration at SeonAm temple (선암사), a smaller temple located not far from my home.

There too, the temple yard was decorated with prayer lanterns.  People came to the temple to pray, and to cheerfully wish each other well on the occasion of this important religious day.  Many wished me a good day, sometimes in Korean, sometimes in English.

Lanterns in the temple yard, at 선암사.

People greeting each other under the prayer lanterns, at 선암사.

Going to pray, on Buddha's birthday.

At 선암사, the celebration was hosted by ladies dressed in similar traditional Korean dresses of purple colour.

Hostesses wearing purple coloured traditional Korean dresses.

Some of the visitors at the temple constructed little mounds with small stones, placing them at various locations on the temple grounds.  I don't understand the significance of these piles of stone, but I think they are interesting...

A pile of stones, constructed by a visitor to 선암사.

Another pile of stones, with prayer lanterns in the background.

Last year, I had come to 선암사 at night on Buddha's birthday.  At that time, the prayer lanterns were all lit, and they shone beautifully under the night sky.

Illuminated prayer lanterns in the light of the setting sun, at 선암사.

The open gate of 선암사, last year, on the night of Buddha's birthday.

This year, I tried to visit 선암사 in the evening, on the day after Buddha's birthday, hoping to see the illuminated prayer lanterns on that day.  But when I got to 선암사, the temple gate was closed and the lanterns did not appear to be illuminated...

The closed gate at 선암사, on the night after Buddha's birthday.

In my opinion, the celebration of Buddha's birthday at 선암사 seemed subdued this year, in comparison to last year.  Last year, there was heavy traffic on the road to the temple during the entire day.  This year there seemed to be far fewer people visiting the temple...

Because it is a temple of the Jogye order of Buddhism, I wondered if the attendance of the celebration of Buddha's birthday at 선암사 was reduced as a result of the scandal that emerged, concerning the Jogye order, a few weeks ago.  On May 10, 2012, it was reported in the news that monks of the Jogye order were caught on film allegedly smoking, drinking, and gambling.  Drinking, smoking and gambling is prohibited by the code of conduct of Buddhist monks, and therefore this news was quite scandalous.  But most serious was the amount of money that the monks allegedly gambled.  One article reported that the amounts gambled were in the tens of millions of won, which corresponds to tens of thousands of dollars.  It was soon after reported that a power struggle is currently taking place within the Jogye order, with different monks vying for control of the organization.  The Jogye order is the largest order of Buddhist monks in Korea, and is therefore quite influential.  As a result, the leadership of the order is powerful, and has access to substantial financial and political resources.  This tale of religious and political intrigue, reminiscent of those that sometimes grip the Vatican, even made the news in Québec on Buddha's birthday...