Autumn Colours in South Jeolla Province

South Jeolla province (전라남도) is Korea's south-westernmost province.  It is a beautiful province, boasting an attractive seashore, idyllic agrarian landscapes, mountains and rivers.

Getting there from Busan is easy.  It can be done by train, but most travelers from Busan to Jeolla province go by bus.  Out of Busan, buses take highway 10 westward, across South GyeongSang province (경상님도).  Just north-east of Suncheon (순천시), highway 10 turns into highway 25, which crosses most of South Jeolla province, passing through GwangJu (광주광역시).  GwangJu is one of Korea's 6 provincial cities (광역시).  They are the 6 largest cities in Korea after Seoul, which is itself designated as Seoul special city (서울특별시).  GwangJu is Korea's 6th largest city, with a population of over 1.4 million inhabitants.  It is an ideal base for exploring South Jeolla province.


The bus ride from Busan to South Jeolla province starts at the Sasang bus terminal, in western Busan. (But buses from Busan to South Jeolla can depart from the Nopo bus terminal as well.)  From there, the bus heads west, crossing the Nakdong river (낙동강).  It doesn't take long for the bus to reach the country side of South GyeongSang province.

Farms in South GyeongSang province.

More farms in South GyeongSang province.

Farms in South GyeongSang province.

In late October, South Jeolla province is decorated with beautiful multicoloured trees.  The best way to enjoy them is to take a hike on one of the many mountains in the province.  Like for example, Jogye mountain (조계산).  Jogye mountain is named after the largest Buddhist order in Korea, the Jogye order.  It is also a provincial park in South Jeolla province.

To hike across Jogye mountain, Suncheon city is a good place to start.  From downtown Suncheon, it is possible to ride public transit all the way to SeonAm temple (선암사).  SeonAm temple is on the east side of Jogye mountain.

A stream on the way to SeonAm temple, near Suncheon.

An old arched bridge, on the way to SeonAm temple, near Suncheon.

A closer view of the same bridge.

A stream, on the way to SeonAm temple, near Suncheon.

One of the buildings at SeonAm temple.

Prayer lanterns at SeonAm temple.

The path leading out the back entrance of SeonAm temple.

Persimmons, still in the tree at SeonAm temple.

The rear wall of SeonAm temple.

Signs of modernity at SeonAm temple.

Behind SeonAm temple, there is a path leading up Jogye mountain.  In late October, it is simply spectacular to see!

On the way to Jogye mountain.

Colourful grasses on the way to Jogye mountain.

The path up Jogye mountain, in late October.

Autumn colours on Jogye mountain.

A maple leaf on Jogye mountain?

More autumn colours on Jogye mountain.

Wow!

Getting closer to the summit of Jogye mountain.

Near the summit of Jogye mountain, there are interesting ruins.  Apparently, there used to be an old Buddhist monastery there.

A ruined wall near the summit of Jogye mountain.

Another view of the ruins.

On the way up Jogye mountain, the lower part of the mountain reminded me of Canada in late September or early October.  Most trees still had their leaves.  Most of the leaves on the trees had become red or yellow or orange.  A few trees still bore green leaves.  But near the summit, the scenery changed dramatically.  There, the trees had lost most of their leaves, and the landscape was mostly green and brown.  It was very Earthy, and it reminded me of the Ontario landscape in November.

Approaching the summit of Jogye mountain.

This is it.  The summit of Jogye mountain.

Yup.  884 meters above sea level.

Other mountains, visible in the distance.

Korea is a mountainous country.

Trees with very few leaves, on the crest of Jogye mountain.

Erosion control on a section of the path leading back down Jogye mountain.

More trees with few leaves.

Earthy-toned grasses, on the crest of Jogye mountain.

The Earthy-toned landscape on the crest of Jogye mountain.

Beautiful!

Some berries, frozen, still in the tree.

Yellow berries in a nearly leafless tree, on the crest of Jogye mountain.

Agricultural land in the valley, below Jogye mountain.

Another view of the valley below Jogye mountain.

On the way down Jogye mountain, I found myself again in a region where the trees sported colourful leaves.

On the way down Jogye mountain.

A splash of red in an Earthy background.

A small flower, still not frozen in spite of the autumn cold.

On the west side of Jogye mountain, there is another temple called SongGwang temple (송광사).  SongGwang temple is famous in Korea.  It is a large temple, and many important members of the Jogye order studied at SongGwang temple.  From SongGwang temple, it is possible to ride a city bus back to Suncheon city.  This bus ride takes about 1.5 hours to complete, and costs KRW1000.  Yup, the quality of the public transit in Korea is unbelievable.

A stream running by SongGwang temple.

Detail of one of the buildings at SongGwang temple.

One of the main buildings at SongGwang temple.

Another one of the main buildings at SongGwang temple.

An interesting anecdote...
During my hike over Jogye mountain, I kept crossing the path of 2 older Korean men.  After passing them and being passed by them a few times on the trail, one of them offered me a piece of chocolate.  I accepted it, thanking him as best I could in my limited Korean.  Then, we parted ways, and I didn't expect to see them again.  Until shortly after I started heading down from the summit of the mountain, they caught up with me again.  At that point, I was resting on a bench, and they stopped near me to have lunch.  All of a sudden, one of them beckoned to me, insisting that I join them to eat.  I felt bad taking some of their food, but they would not accept that I refuse their offer.  So I joined them.  The food they offered me was delicious!

Over lunch, we chatted, I in English and almost non-existent Korean, they in Korean and in a broken English.  At one point, one of them asked me my age.  I told him, and he responded that he was 66 years old.  His buddy, he told me, was in his fifties.  Both of them were named Mr. Kim.  I thought they might be brothers, but Kim is one of the most common last names in Korea, so I'm not sure.

Chatting again, they said things that led me to believe that they were farmers.  They explained that they live in the Suncheon area, and that they personally made or harvested all of the foods that they were sharing with me at lunch.  They had two types of rice, many different kimchis, some lotus root, other pickled vegetables that I found delicious, and even some home made liquor.  Of course, they insisted that I take a shot of that, too.  And after lunch, as we parted ways, they to descend the mountain towards Suncheon, and I to descend towards SongGwang temple, they gave me persimmons.  They told me that they had picked them very recently from trees on their property.

A persimmon, given to me on Jogye Mountain by Mr. Kim and Mr. Kim.

I'm very grateful to Mr. Kim and Mr. Kim.  많이 감사 합니다, 순천의 김선생님 와 김선생님.  As I am to all the Koreans who have been so hospitable with me, on mountains or elsewhere in Korea.