Ode to the Pajeon

by F. Mohamed and J.-P. L. Prévost


Eating pajeon (approximately pronounced "pah-john", "파전" in Korean) for the first time was an experience that our taste buds will not forget. This warm and satisfying savoury pancake is teeming with an assortment of seafood and fresh green onions. It is similar to a fritatta but the batter of the pajeon is more doughy, as it contains flour. It is also somewhat like a green onion cake but with the pajeon, the pancake part of the dish is secondary to the seafood and vegetables, which makes it seem a bit healthier even though it is also fried.

The pajeon at the "Drums Beating" ("북 치구, 장구 치구") restaurant.

The pajeon at "The Inn Without At Address" ("번지 없는 주막").

When it first arrived at our table, we attempted to use our chopsticks to break it apart into bite-sized pieces before digging in. We were clearly struggling, so our helpful server returned to our table with scissors to cut the pajeon into manageable portions for us. We then successfully used our chopsticks to pick it up, dip it into a small bowl of soy sauce mixed with sesame seeds, and then allowed our taste buds to relish in its savoury flavours.

Pajeon is a simple dish. It consists mainly of seafood, green onions, and batter. We have been struggling to articulate why we find this simple dish so delicious, so we have come up with a top 5 list of its best attributes:
5. The sight of a pajeon is simply beautiful. It is loaded to the max with vegetables and seafood and no two areas of the pajeon look the same.  
4. The aroma of pajeon has a freshness to it, full of potent green onions and fresh seafood.
3. Pajeon is fun to eat. Despite our ineptitude at breaking apart the pajeon with chopsticks, it is fun to do this.
2. There is a delicious contrast when you bite into pajeon, between the soft pancake batter and the crunchy seafood and green onions. This makes this dish a pleasure to eat.
1. Although the ingredients are simple, they all complement each other and all blend into a tasty goodness that left our tummies feeling warm, nourished, and happy.   

An interesting place to eat pajeon is on Insadong street in Seoul (map). In the alleys off Insadong street, many traditional Korean houses have been converted into restaurants with romantic names like "The Inn Without An Address" ("번지 없는 주막" in Korean), and "Drums Beating" ("북 치구, 장구 치구" in Korean). Pajeon, advertised in English as "seafood and green onion pancake", costs between KRW10000 to KRW20000. It is served on an iron pizza dish, which is brought piping hot to your table on a wooden board. All in a beautiful, rustic, romantic and cozy setting - perfect for planting little smooches on the cheeks of your special someone when no one is looking.

The sign over the door of "The Inn Without An Address" ("번지 없는 주막").

The front door of the "Drums Beating" ("북 치구, 장구 치구") restaurant.

Pajeon, as advertised on the menu board at the "Drums Beating" ("북 치구, 장구 치구") restaurant.

The decor inside the "Drums Beating" ("북 치구, 장구 치구") restaurant.

Seating inside the "Drums Beating" ("북 치구, 장구 치구") restaurant.

Seating inside "The Inn Without An Address" ("번지 없는 주막").