메리 크리스마스 - Merry Christmas - Joyeux Noël

Le 25 décembre est déjà presque arrivé en Corée.

Dehors, le vent soufle fort et il fait noir.
Dans le ciel, il n'y a que très peu d'étoiles et pas de lune.
Mais les lumières de Busan illuminent joliment la nuit.
Et au loin, sur l'océan Pacifique, sont visibles des phares de navires.   

Chez moi, il fait bien et je pense à tous ceux et celles que j'aime qui vivent au loin.
Joyeux Noël à vous tous!
J'espère que vous passerez de bon moments avec vos amis et en famille durant le temps des fêtes.

Un petit temple coréen, en hiver.  A small Korean temple, in winter.

In Korea, December 25th is only a few hours away now.

Outside, night has fallen, and the winter wind is howling.
In the sky, there are very few stars, and no moon.
But the lights of Busan illuminate the night beautifully.
And in the distance, on the Pacific, the lights of sailing ships are visible.

At home, I am warm, and I am thinking of the people that I love, who live so far away.
Merry Christmas to you all!
I hope that you will all have the opportunity to spend time with family and friends during the holidays.

Sunset on Baekyang Mountain

It was the last Saturday before the solstice.

In the late afternoon light, Baekyang mountain (백양산) was gorgeous, an explosion of beautiful reds and deep browns.

On the crest of Baekyang mountain, at sunset.

On the crest of Baekyang mountain, at sunset.

From the summit of the mountain, the view of the setting sun was unobstructed.
Beyond the Nakdong river (낙동강), it crept towards the horizon, colouring the sky with red, orange and yellow hues.

The setting sun, beyond the Nakdong river.

The mouth of the Nakdong river and the Pacific ocean, at sunset.

The setting sun, beyond the Nakdong river.

When it finally reached the horizon, it kissed the Pacific ocean.
It then disappeared for the night.

The setting sun just above the Pacific.

The setting sun just above the Pacific.

The sun, disappearing over the Pacific.

After sunset, in the last light of the day, the summit of the mountain contrasted beautifully against a dark blue sky.
Below, dozens of ships were waiting near the port of Busan, and the city lights shone beautifully in the early night.

The summit of Baekyang mountain, in the last light of the day.

Ships waiting by the port of Busan.

The city lights, coming on just after sunset.

What a beautiful sight it all was!

More About Kim Jong-il's Death

Not surprisingly, Kim Jong-il's death was the headline story in most South Korean papers today.

A selection of today's South Korean papers.

Today, the South Korean government issued a statement of condolences to the North Korean people but chose not to send an official delegation to the mourning ceremony being held in Pyongyang, opting instead to support a visit to North Korea by family members of a few South Korean politicians and business leaders that had relatively close relationships with Kim Jong-il.

Other South Korean news articles reported that it seems that Kim Jong-eun is now officially the leader of the North Korean government, and that some news agencies in the North now refer to him as "respectable" Kim Jong-eun.

Other articles in the international press continued to raise questions about the capacity of Kim Jong-eun to lead the North Korean government, and wondered about the implications of the passing of Kim Jong-il for the regular people of North Korea.  But things appear pretty stable in North Korea, with no unusual activity reported near the border with South Korea, or near the border with China.


Reports from North Korea about the passing of Kim Jong-il are quite surprising.  A few articles have shown people dramatically mourning and crying his death, but some people that I spoke with have suggested that North Korean citizens are being forced to act out this way by their government's propagandists.  The North Korean régime has, in the past, staged events in order to portray a rosy yet obviously false reality to the international community, as revealed by one BBC journalist who was invited into the country.  A radically different picture of life in North Korea is painted by people who defected to South Korea.  The degree of control exerted by the North Korean régime over the people of North Korea is shocking!  It seems that regular North Koreans obtain no information whatsoever about life anywhere outside of North Korea.

It seems, at the moment, that the transition of power to Kim Jong-eun is occurring smoothly in North Korea, and that nothing dramatic will transpire as a result of the passing of Kim Jong-il.  But because the country is almost totally isolated from the rest of the world, it is very difficult to know what is going on there.  I think that this is why so many international leaders are a little bit concerned by what is happening there now.

The Death of Kim Jong-il

Kim Jong-il (김정일), the dictator of North Korea, has died.

In North Korea, it was announced that Kim Jong-il died of a heart attack caused by the stress induced in him by his leadership work.

In South Korea, television stations cancelled much of their regular programming today, dedicating their resources to news coverage and analysis of this event.  Much was also published on the web-sites of the major Korean newspapers and news broadcasters (see KBS, Korea Times, Chosun Ilbo, and Hankyoreh).  I imagine that tomorrow, this will be the front page story of almost all print newspapers in South Korea.


North Korea's neighbours solemnly responded to the news.  The government of Japan offered formal condolences to the North Korean people, as did the government of China.

In South Korea, the news was received with some concern.  The South Korean president held an emergency meeting to discuss the matter.  Both the South Korean military and the South Korean civil service were placed on alert, just in case something unexpected happens in North Korea.  Some government officials, including the president of South Korea, expressed fears that the passing of Kim Jong-il could have a negative effect on the economy of South Korea.


In the longer term, there is concern about the new ruler of North Korea, Kim Jong-eun (김정은), as he is very young and inexperienced.  Kim Jong-eun is the son of Kim Jong-il, and even before Kim Jong-il died, analysts had argued that Kim Jong-eun may not be able to maintain control of the North Korean government after the passing of his father.  Could it be that dramatic events will soon unfold in North Korea?



update - 2011-12-23
Japan has officially decided not to convey official condolences to anyone in North Korea on the occasion of Kim Jong-il's death.  Earlier reports were actually about statements made by a representative of the Japanese government who now claims that his words were personal, not official.

Also, North Korean defectors now living in South Korea have stated to South Korean news agencies that they doubt that many North Koreans are truly saddened by the death of Kim Jong-il.  Defectors interviewed by the Chosun Ilbo stated that only the residents of Pyongyang are likely to be truly saddened by Kim Jong-il's death, as they are the only residents of North Korea who benefit from his régime.  According to the same defectors, there is no real support for Kim Jong-il in the North Korean countryside, as people there are starving and receive no government support.  In contrast, people in Pyongyang receive food rations from the government, thus ensuring that they remain loyal to it.  Interestingly, one defector indicated that loyalty towards Kim Il-sung, the first dictator of North Korea and father of Kim Jong-il, was far more widespread.  So it seems that support for the North Korean government has declined since Kim Jong-il took power.  Could it be that North Koreans will soon rise up and overthrow their government?

Autumn in Canada - l'automne au Québec - 한국의 가을

L'automne est une très belle saison, tant au Québec qu'en Corée.

Au Québec, et ailleurs au Canada, elle ressemble à ceci:

Le parc de la Gatineau, en automne.

Sur la rive du lac Meech.

Un feuillage d'octobre.

Encore des feuilles colorées.

Une plume d'oiseau noire.

Un joli paysage orangé.

Au lac Meech au couché du soleil.

Plus tard à l'automne.

Des pommes mûres à cueillir.

Des feuilles oranges, même dans la ville.

Et la lune qui se lève tôt.

En Corée, l'automne est aussi très colorée:

Coloris automnal au parc du mont Jogye.

À Busan, sur le mont Baekyang.

Au temple SeonAm, encore sur le mont Baekyang.

Sur le mont BukAk, dans la ville de Séoul.

Encore sur le mont BukAk.

Le coloris automnal au couché du soleil, sur le mont Nam à Séoul.

Les feuilles rouges du mont Nam, avec Séoul en arrière-plan.

Une fleur de tournesol, profitant d'une journée automnale chaude.

억새풀

Even though the trees in Busan are not that colourful in October and November, there are still some beautiful natural landscapes to see in Busan in the early autumn.

On many of Busan's mountains, there grows a particular species of grass called "eulalia grass".  In Korean, it is called "eok-se-pul" (억새풀).  In mid-October, eulalia grass turns golden yellow.  And its seeds ripen, forming a beautiful white crown atop every blade of grass.  A field of ripe eulalia grass is a beautiful sight, and the wind blowing through it makes a soft, soothing sound. 

Eulalia grass on 구덕산.  The Pacific ocean is visible in the distance.

A tree on a mountain crest, surrounded by eulalia grass.

Eulalia grass with the Nakdong river (낙동강) visible in the distance.

억새풀, with Busan and the Pacific ocean in the distance.

The 낙동강  and eastern Busan.

Again, the 낙동강 and eastern Busan, with eulalia grass in the foreground.

Focusing the camera on the grass.

The ripe seeds of the eulalia grass.

It seems to me that eulalia grass is celebrated in Korean culture, at least in the area of Busan.  A few days ago, in a subway station in Busan, I noticed that the station had been decorated with placards featuring Korean poems.  Each poem was accompanied by an illustration, and I immediately recognized that one of them was about eulalia grass.

A poem about eulalia grass, in a Busan subway station.

I asked a Korean friend to help me translate the poem.  It is beautiful!  It speaks of a person, impatiently waiting for the eulalia grass to ripen in the autumn.  Once ripened, the grass covers the mountains and fields, as if greeting the person as it waves in the wind.  The ripe grass reminds the person of someone else, tending a rice field, tanned skin in the autumn sun, wearing a white scarf on her head - that is, the person's mother.

Late Autumn Crops in Korea

Travelling through Korea during the last few weeks, I was struck by the presence of crops in many of the fields.

Indeed, the rice harvest is over by early November.

Rice fields, after the harvest.

But many smaller fields are still green, in spite of the colder weather and shorter hours of daylight.

Greens in a field, in late October.

Green fields in October.

Edibles growing in late October.

Some green fields, in early November.

Upon closer examination, the plants growing in these fields were those vegetables that I had learned, thanks to my parents' gardening hobby, are more hardy and frost resistant.  Commonly, these late autumn crops consisted of onions and hardy leafy plants that looked like cabbages.

Korea's growing season is definitely longer than Canada's.

Mountain Climbing in Korea

Mountain climbing is very popular in Korea.  And since the country is covered with mountains, some steep and tall, others gently sloping and not-so-tall, there's a mountain for everyone here.

Due to the popularity of this hobby in Korea, it's not unusual, on a sunny autumn week-end, to find large groups of people hiking up mountains.  When I first witnessed this phenomenon, I was a little surprised.  At home, mountains are pretty secluded places.  Even though there are some very popular wilderness parks and mountains in Canada, I had never witnessed a crowd of people hiking up a mountain slope, all lined up in a single file, before coming to Korea.

Also of note is that many of the mountain climbers in Korea are elderly people, like Mr. Kim and Mr. Kim whose paths I crossed in Jeolla province late last month.  Most of these elderly Korean hikers are in excellent physical form, and they commonly navigate the mountain paths with greater ease than younger hikers.  While exploring different mountains, I was more than once embarrassed by an elderly hiker overtaking me on a steep slope.

So if you're visiting Korea, make some time for a mountain hike.  Hiking is good fun, good exercise, and a great way to see the country.  And while you're out on the trail, you'll probably meet some interesting local people.

Autumn Colours in South Jeolla Province

South Jeolla province (전라남도) is Korea's south-westernmost province.  It is a beautiful province, boasting an attractive seashore, idyllic agrarian landscapes, mountains and rivers.

Getting there from Busan is easy.  It can be done by train, but most travelers from Busan to Jeolla province go by bus.  Out of Busan, buses take highway 10 westward, across South GyeongSang province (경상님도).  Just north-east of Suncheon (순천시), highway 10 turns into highway 25, which crosses most of South Jeolla province, passing through GwangJu (광주광역시).  GwangJu is one of Korea's 6 provincial cities (광역시).  They are the 6 largest cities in Korea after Seoul, which is itself designated as Seoul special city (서울특별시).  GwangJu is Korea's 6th largest city, with a population of over 1.4 million inhabitants.  It is an ideal base for exploring South Jeolla province.


The bus ride from Busan to South Jeolla province starts at the Sasang bus terminal, in western Busan. (But buses from Busan to South Jeolla can depart from the Nopo bus terminal as well.)  From there, the bus heads west, crossing the Nakdong river (낙동강).  It doesn't take long for the bus to reach the country side of South GyeongSang province.

Farms in South GyeongSang province.

More farms in South GyeongSang province.

Farms in South GyeongSang province.

In late October, South Jeolla province is decorated with beautiful multicoloured trees.  The best way to enjoy them is to take a hike on one of the many mountains in the province.  Like for example, Jogye mountain (조계산).  Jogye mountain is named after the largest Buddhist order in Korea, the Jogye order.  It is also a provincial park in South Jeolla province.

To hike across Jogye mountain, Suncheon city is a good place to start.  From downtown Suncheon, it is possible to ride public transit all the way to SeonAm temple (선암사).  SeonAm temple is on the east side of Jogye mountain.

A stream on the way to SeonAm temple, near Suncheon.

An old arched bridge, on the way to SeonAm temple, near Suncheon.

A closer view of the same bridge.

A stream, on the way to SeonAm temple, near Suncheon.

One of the buildings at SeonAm temple.

Prayer lanterns at SeonAm temple.

The path leading out the back entrance of SeonAm temple.

Persimmons, still in the tree at SeonAm temple.

The rear wall of SeonAm temple.

Signs of modernity at SeonAm temple.

Behind SeonAm temple, there is a path leading up Jogye mountain.  In late October, it is simply spectacular to see!

On the way to Jogye mountain.

Colourful grasses on the way to Jogye mountain.

The path up Jogye mountain, in late October.

Autumn colours on Jogye mountain.

A maple leaf on Jogye mountain?

More autumn colours on Jogye mountain.

Wow!

Getting closer to the summit of Jogye mountain.

Near the summit of Jogye mountain, there are interesting ruins.  Apparently, there used to be an old Buddhist monastery there.

A ruined wall near the summit of Jogye mountain.

Another view of the ruins.

On the way up Jogye mountain, the lower part of the mountain reminded me of Canada in late September or early October.  Most trees still had their leaves.  Most of the leaves on the trees had become red or yellow or orange.  A few trees still bore green leaves.  But near the summit, the scenery changed dramatically.  There, the trees had lost most of their leaves, and the landscape was mostly green and brown.  It was very Earthy, and it reminded me of the Ontario landscape in November.

Approaching the summit of Jogye mountain.

This is it.  The summit of Jogye mountain.

Yup.  884 meters above sea level.

Other mountains, visible in the distance.

Korea is a mountainous country.

Trees with very few leaves, on the crest of Jogye mountain.

Erosion control on a section of the path leading back down Jogye mountain.

More trees with few leaves.

Earthy-toned grasses, on the crest of Jogye mountain.

The Earthy-toned landscape on the crest of Jogye mountain.

Beautiful!

Some berries, frozen, still in the tree.

Yellow berries in a nearly leafless tree, on the crest of Jogye mountain.

Agricultural land in the valley, below Jogye mountain.

Another view of the valley below Jogye mountain.

On the way down Jogye mountain, I found myself again in a region where the trees sported colourful leaves.

On the way down Jogye mountain.

A splash of red in an Earthy background.

A small flower, still not frozen in spite of the autumn cold.

On the west side of Jogye mountain, there is another temple called SongGwang temple (송광사).  SongGwang temple is famous in Korea.  It is a large temple, and many important members of the Jogye order studied at SongGwang temple.  From SongGwang temple, it is possible to ride a city bus back to Suncheon city.  This bus ride takes about 1.5 hours to complete, and costs KRW1000.  Yup, the quality of the public transit in Korea is unbelievable.

A stream running by SongGwang temple.

Detail of one of the buildings at SongGwang temple.

One of the main buildings at SongGwang temple.

Another one of the main buildings at SongGwang temple.

An interesting anecdote...
During my hike over Jogye mountain, I kept crossing the path of 2 older Korean men.  After passing them and being passed by them a few times on the trail, one of them offered me a piece of chocolate.  I accepted it, thanking him as best I could in my limited Korean.  Then, we parted ways, and I didn't expect to see them again.  Until shortly after I started heading down from the summit of the mountain, they caught up with me again.  At that point, I was resting on a bench, and they stopped near me to have lunch.  All of a sudden, one of them beckoned to me, insisting that I join them to eat.  I felt bad taking some of their food, but they would not accept that I refuse their offer.  So I joined them.  The food they offered me was delicious!

Over lunch, we chatted, I in English and almost non-existent Korean, they in Korean and in a broken English.  At one point, one of them asked me my age.  I told him, and he responded that he was 66 years old.  His buddy, he told me, was in his fifties.  Both of them were named Mr. Kim.  I thought they might be brothers, but Kim is one of the most common last names in Korea, so I'm not sure.

Chatting again, they said things that led me to believe that they were farmers.  They explained that they live in the Suncheon area, and that they personally made or harvested all of the foods that they were sharing with me at lunch.  They had two types of rice, many different kimchis, some lotus root, other pickled vegetables that I found delicious, and even some home made liquor.  Of course, they insisted that I take a shot of that, too.  And after lunch, as we parted ways, they to descend the mountain towards Suncheon, and I to descend towards SongGwang temple, they gave me persimmons.  They told me that they had picked them very recently from trees on their property.

A persimmon, given to me on Jogye Mountain by Mr. Kim and Mr. Kim.

I'm very grateful to Mr. Kim and Mr. Kim.  많이 감사 합니다, 순천의 김선생님 와 김선생님.  As I am to all the Koreans who have been so hospitable with me, on mountains or elsewhere in Korea.